While most of this information has been covered in previous posts, we have a new product on the shelf that we wanted to highlight, and it is always good to go over things that are important. There is a new player in the liquid yeast scene. GigaYeast, Inc. "laboratory was opened in July 2011 to create perfect.... And by perfect we mean the right yeast, the right pitch rate and no detectable contamination.”
We have picked up GigaYeast as a product for a couple of reasons; One, they offer some yeast strands that are not available from both Wyeast and White Labs, and Two, they provide a real pitchable yeast for the consumer without the need for a starter, for most 5 gallon batches of ale.
Putting the correct amount of yeast in your beer can be one of the easiest ways to eliminate off-flavors. However, it is probably one of the most common oversights by the home brewer. Most people like the variety available in liquid yeast, and feel like it is a better product than the dry counterpart, but the fact is, the large Wyeast pack and the standard Whitelabs vial, contain about half the necessary yeast for clean start to fermentation for a 5%, 5 gallon batch of ale. Doing a yeast starter is a great way to use liquid yeast correctly, but many beginners are intimidated by them. Giga Yeast has twice as many yeast cells at the time of packaging as their liquid yeast counterparts, which is ideal for many beers.
We of course recommend figuring out what your correct pitch rate should be for any beer before adding your yeast. While pitching yeast is a fairly straight forward process, there is a bit of mathematical magic happening in the background that has to do with keeping your yeast cells happy and healthy. But, since math is hard and magic doesn't exist, let's make this as easy as possible, first we need to find how many degrees Plato your beer wort will be. Like specific gravity, Plato is just a measure of density, and approximating Plato can be done by taking the numbers after the decimal of your Original Gravity (O.G.) and dividing them by 4. So, an O.G. of 1.048 would be 12 degrees Plato (1.080 would be 20 degrees Plato). Once you know how
to find Plato you can easily find your pitch rate using one of the below:
Find Plato, double that number, add a zero after it, and then say billion after that... it's easy. “My recipe is going to have a 1.048 O.G, so 48 divided by 4 is 12, double that is 24, or 240... Billion”. Subtract 25% for ales, or add 25% for lagers.
Or, an even shorter version; calculate Plato, then times that number by 15. That is it for ales. Double that number for Lagers.
Thursday, January 30, 2014
Thursday, January 16, 2014
Sanitation Iodophor vs. Star-San
A question we get a lot in the store is why to use a no rinse sanitizer, and whether or not the One Step or PBW is a sanitizer at all. So, I thought I would cover those very common questions.
Unlike other posts, I will be slanting this towards the products we sell in the store and giving my opinion based on what I have use, seen, and read about. It seems there are neverending threads on forums on whether or not Bicarbonate cleansers such as PBW, One-Step, and B-Brite work as a sanitizer, but for the purposes of this post, I will just say they are NOT sanitizers. Yes, it used to be. Yes, it kills microbes. Yes, people use it as a sanitizer successfully. But it is not classified as a sanitizer any longer because it doesn’t kill enough microbes. They also leave a film and granules behind that I wouldn’t really want in my beer or wine, which means you need to rinse it… and if you are rinsing you are reintroducing microbes.
So, we recommend treating your equipment like a commercial kitchen treats their dishing and cookware. Clean (with cleanser), Rinse (with water), Sanitize (no rinse sanitizer).
Since One-Step, PBW, and B-Brite are virtually the same thing and are all really good at removing organic material, you could go with whatever one you would like with similar results, but there are a couple popular no rinse sanitizers that are fairly different, so here is an over vew of Both:
Iodophor
This is an iodine based sanitizer that is great for home brewers. There is no real Iodine smell, and if diluted properly, should not affect the taste of your beer either, but if you have a severe iodine allergy, I would probably stay away from it. The main benefit of this product is price. It is a bit cheaper than Star-Stan.
Dilution: 1oz to 5 gallons
Contact Time: 1 minute
Dry Time: None
Min Cost/Oz: $.66
Star-San
Built specifically for the home brewer, this product is acid-based and uses a low PH to kill microbes. The diluted solution will quickly degrade in the presence of beer (wort) and break down into yeast nutrient. It is a bit more expensive, but you can keep the diluted solution around for several weeks (as long as the PH says below a 3) and reuse it, which makes up for the added cost. This product also produces a lot of foam, which turns some people off, but in my experience has never caused any off flavors or issues with fermentation.
Dilution: 1oz to 5 gallons
Contact Time: 30 Seconds
Dry Time: None
Min Cost/Oz: $.70
We suggest trying both products to see which one works best for you, but because of the longevity we give the edge to Star-San.
In full disclosure there are other products, such as Caustic soda, sodium hydroxide and lye which are a VERY effective cleaners for organic solids but rather dangerous to use without protection and not very friendly to the environment.
Monday, December 2, 2013
CyBeer Monday (Through Friday)
Give the gift of brewing this Holiday Season with Salt City Brew Supply! This Basic Brewing Kit is a great way to start Homebrewing 5 gallons of beer, and this week you get free ingredients also!
Includes all of the following equipment:
- 6.5 gallon primary fermenting bucket with lid (drilled for airlock)
- Bottling bucket (6.5 gallon) with spigot (3/8" opening)
- Rack and fill kit (auto siphon, siphon hose, bottle filler)
- Air lock
- Adhesive thermometer
- Triple scale hydrometer
- Beer bottle brush
- Twin lever capper
- Oxy-based Cleanser
- True Brew basic brewing handbook
- 6.5 gallon primary fermenting bucket with lid (drilled for airlock)
- Bottling bucket (6.5 gallon) with spigot (3/8" opening)
- Rack and fill kit (auto siphon, siphon hose, bottle filler)
- Air lock
- Adhesive thermometer
- Triple scale hydrometer
- Beer bottle brush
- Twin lever capper
- Oxy-based Cleanser
- True Brew basic brewing handbook
Plus, pick one of the following ingredient kits FREE!*
*Available online only. One promotional ingredient kit per equipment kit purchased at full price.
Not valid with other offers. Ends 12/6/13
Wednesday, November 20, 2013
Time To Parti-Gyle
Have you ever brewed a large beer, say
an Imperial Stout, or Imperial IPA, or maybe even a Barley Wine, and
felt a little guilty throwing out that large grain bill when you
finished making your beer? Some people compost, some people feed
their chickens, some people put it in bread, and while these ideas
are all fine and good, I personally make more beer with it.

Today, the homebrewer typically just sparges the grain after the initial mash and combines the first runnings (mash) with the second runnings (sparge) producing a full gyle. So why do it differently? Well, because two beers are better than one, and if you don't think so, you are probably reading the wrong blog... And since you bought all that grain with your hard earned money, why don't you get the most out of it.
Pretty awesome right? Are you asking yourself, “why haven't I been doing this since I started brewing?” Well there are a couple of reasons it can be a hassle, and it isn't for everyone. Sorry extract brewers, I don't think your way is inferior, but you just can't play here. The next biggest hurdle is your ability to brew and ferment two beers (or three) at once? Two burners, two kettles, two fermenters. Otherwise you are looking at a tremendously long brew day. Fortunately for me I have my old extract equipment so I usually brew a 3 gallon Imperial on the stove top and my 5 gallons session beer on my regular equipment. The other downside is the math. It isn't rocket science, but once you figure out what you are doing it will still take some practice to get the process down to something you are comfortable with. I will provide some more detail in a subsequent post on the mathematics of a parti-gyle, but don't wait for me. Jump in with both feet and make a couple of beers during your next brew day. Don't worry, it will make beer. We are happy to help you with this in the store also.

You may have heard the term
“parti-gyle” before, but wasn't sure what it was, or it sounded
like some new-fangled process to make all grain brewing more
complicated. Well, in fact, it is a very old and traditional way to
brew, dating back hundreds of years, and with some math and some
practice it is a great way for you to walk away from your brew day
with not one, but two beers in the fermenter(s).
Historically brewers would mash and
lauter the same grain bill several times producing a batch of wort
and subsequent beer with each individual mash. Most likely this is
where the Belgians got their terminology for their Trapist ales;
Trippel (highest alcohol first runnings), Dubbel (high alcohol second
runnings), and Pater or Table Beer (low alcohol third runnings). And,
in early American colonies beer was made for sale at taverns, but
“small” beer was made from the second runnings which was consumed
by workers and even children as to avoid drinking the water which was
often considered unfit to drink. Since the total potential of the
original grain bill was known as a “gyle”, the process of
splitting or partitioning the runnings became known as “parti-gyling”
Today, the homebrewer typically just sparges the grain after the initial mash and combines the first runnings (mash) with the second runnings (sparge) producing a full gyle. So why do it differently? Well, because two beers are better than one, and if you don't think so, you are probably reading the wrong blog... And since you bought all that grain with your hard earned money, why don't you get the most out of it.
Practically speaking, there are a few
different ways to use a parti-gyle brew day.
One: you can just keep sparging your
grain until your runnings hit a gravity of 1.010 rather than to a
specific volume size. Depending on the grain you are using you can
maybe pull out double the volume of beer you would have got
otherwise. But remember that if your grain bill was built for a 5
gallon batch of 1.060 beer, that will be the gravity of the first 5
gallons. If you run out another 5 gallons at say 1.020, then your
combined 10 gallon gyle will yield a 1.040 beer. As you can see, there are lots of gravity readings required. This is impractical for a hydrometer. Get yourself a refractometer.
Two: Make a grain bill for your
Imperial Stout/Porter/IPA etc, then continue to sparge until your
runnings hit a gravity of 1.010 but make it a true pari-gyle and keep
them separate. How you split it will be entirely up to you. Maybe
split it in thirds for three similar beers but with varying alcohol,
or maybe keep one an imperial, and the other a small session beer.
Three: After one of the partitions add
some adjuncts or specialty grain to your mash for a different beer
from your second (or third) runnings. Just add some roasted barley
and flaked oats to your grain to turn what was an Imperial IPA first
runnings into a small stout second runnings.
Pretty awesome right? Are you asking yourself, “why haven't I been doing this since I started brewing?” Well there are a couple of reasons it can be a hassle, and it isn't for everyone. Sorry extract brewers, I don't think your way is inferior, but you just can't play here. The next biggest hurdle is your ability to brew and ferment two beers (or three) at once? Two burners, two kettles, two fermenters. Otherwise you are looking at a tremendously long brew day. Fortunately for me I have my old extract equipment so I usually brew a 3 gallon Imperial on the stove top and my 5 gallons session beer on my regular equipment. The other downside is the math. It isn't rocket science, but once you figure out what you are doing it will still take some practice to get the process down to something you are comfortable with. I will provide some more detail in a subsequent post on the mathematics of a parti-gyle, but don't wait for me. Jump in with both feet and make a couple of beers during your next brew day. Don't worry, it will make beer. We are happy to help you with this in the store also.
Thursday, October 31, 2013
LE2013 - South African Chenin Blanc Roussanne
South African Chenin Blanc Roussanne
Order by November 29th for January 2014
Order by November 29th for January 2014
REGION
Paarl, South Africa
Blessed by the same combination of hot sunshine and moderating ocean breezes that favor Worcester, the Paarl is encompassed by huge granite outcroppings that provide rain shadows to the vineyards and produce the sandy, mineral-laden soils. Low yields in these soils (less than 2 tons per acre) allow the vines to concentrate all of their growth on pristine, intense fruit.
WINE
The three grapes make a unique wine of elegance, power and delicacy: crisp, but honeyed, with aromas of apricot, orange blossoms, herbal tea and melons give way to a medium body and a long rich finish of floral notes. The depth and complexity of this white wine make it an excellent partner with richly flavored foods: curries, Satay, and South-Asian dishes, along with creamy or buttery sauces and soups.
FOOD PAIRING
Sweetness: Dry
Body: Medium
Alcohol: 13%
Wednesday, October 30, 2013
LE2013 - Red Mountain, Washington Cabernet Merlot
Red Mountain, Washington Cabernet Merlot
Order by November 29th for April 2014
Order by November 29th for April 2014
REGION
Red Mountain, Washington
Red Mountain in Washington State is graced with southwest facing slopes for warmer temperatures and more sunlight hours than any other part of the Columbia Valley. The Yakima River moderates temperature, and the cool air flowing from the north prevents frost from forming, allowing grapes to safely hang for extended periods.
WINE
A darkly powerful wine with immediate notes of oak and blackcurrants on the nose come to mingle with peppery spice and cedar, supported by a fruit-driven palate of boysenberry, plum, redcurrant and black cherry. The finish is boldly tannic, with a mouth-filling grip of dense, brambly fruit.
The tannins in this wine call for grilled meat and game: steak with blue cheese butter, saddle of venison, and especially roasted lamb with herbs.
FOOD PAIRING
Sweetness: Dry
Body: Medium-Full
Alcohol: 13.5%
Sunday, October 27, 2013
LE2013 - Pacific Quartet
Pacific Quartet
Order by November 29th for February 2014
Order by November 29th for February 2014

REGIONS
The Pacific Rim, encompassed by North and South America on one side and Australia on the other, has micro-climates that match those from all over the world, from the blazing sunshine to crisp mountain air, and soils ranging from sandy loam, stony red clay, nearly pure limestone and everything in between. The range and variety provide perfect terroir for almost any grape, and Winexpert has searched out the best for this blend, reaching all the way from one side of the Pacific to the other.
WINE
The four grapes showcase a host of brilliant flavors of bright fruit, excellent structure and a long finish. Viognier from Chile gives apricots, blossoms and stone fruit. Chenin Blanc from California gives a wonderful melony-honeyed aroma with hints of apple. Gewürztraminer from Washington contributes lychee, rose petals and floral notes, and Muscat from Australia's Murray-Darling Valley gives wonderful grapey notes with dried fruit and hints of orange peel.
Full-bodied yet supple, this wine has a range of fruit character and enough acidity to stand up to a wide range of foods, particularly spicy and savory dishes, including Thai cuisine, grilled fish, herbed roast chicken or salmon, but is delicious enough for sipping by itself on a golden afternoon on a patio or deck.
FOOD PAIRING
Sweetness: Off-Dry
Body: Medium-Full
Alcohol: 11.5%
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